I liked the idea to tell how the women of our city dressed in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century’s. It seems that nobody has raised this topic; at least I did not happen to see it. And most importantly, I drew attention to the fact that I have in my archive wonderful photos and materials for illustration. I tell the readers that all actors in the photo shoot are only Zhytomyr, and photographs were made by Zhytomyr photographers. These photos are authentic, old photographs, never published before, with the exception of the fashion design of Paris and elements of women’s clothing
And in Kiev and Zhitomir, women’s fashion of the time focused on the two capitals – Vienna and Paris, who have been in the legislature, and wealthy ladies from Zhytomyr sought throughout to meet European standards.
For the fashion of this period inherent in modernist style, which in the European countries called in different ways: in France – “Art Nouveau” in England – “modern” in Austria and Ukraine – “secession” in Germany – “yuhendstyle.” Characteristic features of the beginning of the modern era were a slim silhouette created by the corset S-shaped. Waist was made higher from behind, and she began to bustle, but then a narrow bodice with a collar in expanded rapidly passed down skirt with many folds, a similar form of “bell”. The feature of the suit was huge sleeves, fixed high on the shoulders, absurd sizes and narrowed from wrists to elbows.
The women’s clothing of 1890 – 1914, in accordance with the new living conditions, became more practical and comfortable. The final tribute to the old aristocratic fashion for crinolines (wide petticoats, worn under the dress to give it a shape “bell”, which was sewed with whalebone or steel bands) with their unnatural forms, was bustle – of women’s clothing that was padded under the dress back below waists to give the figure a splendor.
Various tournaments were made from whale mustache and steel wire or in the form of pads.
After the end of the First World War, the corset gradually disappears from the women’s wardrobe and accessories, and the tendency towards a waist decrease is gradually disappearing. A characteristic element of modernism at the turn of the century is the lack of neckline. Women under the influence of new fashion refuse bustle that reached obscenely large and trying on skirts that emphasize the hips and extend down like a flower.
The lines of the chest and waist become more voluminous, emphasized by smooth and soft contours. Laces become feminine and natural beauty. Clothing of this period is characterized by a large amount of processing: lace, large artificial flowers, bows, scarves, frills, ribbons, appliqués, beading embroidery, and the like.
Fashion as a form of manifestation of cultural life, is not only necessary force, but rather changing whim today, more changes under the influence of scientific, technological and social progress, democratic society. All this determined the appearance of a new female ideal image, the use of fabrics with new properties and color gamut, the search for practical clothing, variety of cut. It was life that determined the fashion that becomes accessible not only to the chosen ringleader, but also to the general population.
The modernist style provided women’s clothing with symmetry in costumes, harmony, elegance and verified proportionality inherent in that time.
Take a closer look: maybe one of those beauties in the photo is your grandmother. Well, and if you do not find your relatives, then at least you will agree: Zhytomyr ladies have always been stylish!
S.Sobchuk
Member of the National Union of Regional History of Ukraine
A. Sobchuk
Photos from the author’s personal archive and open sources
Translated by Aliona Matushevich