The cemetery in the view of many people causes not always pleasant associations. However, many European cities cherish them, turning them into cultural achievements. For example, there are more than 20 cemeteries in Berlin. These zones have been transformed into parks: people walk along the comfortable avenues in the shade of deciduous trees. Can such an object as Cemetery, say, in Berdichev be a top tourist destination? May be. It has already gained popularity, however, in certain groups of tourists. So, let’s travel to almost the center of Berdichev and visit the closed Jewish cemetery (kirkut), which became the site of the modern Hasidic pilgrimage. The small district center on the way from Zhytomyr to Vinnytsia – the town of Berdychiv – is considered a city of four cultures. The Ukrainians, Jews, Poles and Russians coexisted organically and peacefully here for a long time. In the mid-18th century, in a city of 72,000 registered population, 50,000 were Jewish. At that time there were more than 80 synagogues in Berdychiv. This gave reason to call the city Volyn Jerusalem. So it is not surprising that on the north side it was confined to a Jewish cemetery. Today, this place is surprising to both Berdychiv residents and guests, as the city’s boundary has moved further, forming areas of a tannery, a meat-packing plant and the Siedlecki square, and closer to the center looks closely at people with unusual tombstones, an old Jewish cemetery. It safely preserves history, its secrets that are always of interest to inquisitive visitors

The Berdychiv Cemetery started operating in the early 19th century. The last burial dates from 1973. After that the cemetery was closed. Today, the cemetery has become the object of research of scientists from other countries who decipher the inscriptions on the graves, and there are more than 10 thousand here. What attracts tourists here? The key to the cemetery was and remains the mausoleum of Rabbi Levi-tsaka Ben Meir Berdichevsky, built at the expense of the American patron. Levi-itzkhak was the leader of Hasidism in Volyn at the end of the early 19th century, and is now worshiped as a saint. At the heart of his teaching is a deep faith in the universal unity of God and the world, as well as the fact that God continues to this day in the creation of the world.
To the left of the tzadik are his students buried, and to the right – his family. A candle is constantly burning above the grave of Levi-itzhaka and an urn for letters and suggestions. It is believed that sincere prayer will help to fulfill the innermost desire of the requester. The tomb became a place of constant pilgrimage for the Hasidim from all over the world. Thousands of Jewish believers visit this place every year, worshiping the grave of Levi-itzkhak. They bring with them books of mostly religious content that replenish shelves on both sides of the tomb.
It is interesting that the mats (tombstones) on the cemetery are mainly in the form of boots with a foot, necessarily turned to the west, some made in the form of a tree with cut branches and decorated with some plant patterns. If the symbolism of the tree is more or less transparent, there are many questions regarding the interpretation of the symbol of the boots. It turns out that everything is quite simple. Wherever there were Jews in the world, a monument was erected at the burial place, which meant the following: the Jew’s foot was treading the earth and leaving its mark everywhere.
The cemetery and the tomb are guarded by the Honorable Grigory Markovich Dragilev. For more than 20 years without holidays, Grigory Markovich has been keeping the secrets of the kirkut securely. He jokes: “My only leave is the remission of sins”. On the only night he manages to sleep is on Saturday (Shabbat), because the Hasidim come to Berdychiv mostly in the dark, and their first task is to bow to the great tzadik and pray in his tomb.
Only in September 25-30 thousand Jews pass through Berdychiv every year. They are heading to Uman to celebrate Rosh Hashanah (Jewish New Year) to worship the tomb of one of the founders of Hasidic Tzadik, Rabbi Nahman (this year, this holiday will be celebrated from September 29 until October 1). Each of the pilgrims considers it his duty to visit the venerable tzadik’s burial places in order to purify himself and bring success and happiness to him throughout the year. That is why Berdichev’s kirkut is a top place for Hasidim. Not only local Jews are buried in the Berdychiv cemetery, but many well-known Jewish religious figures, Tzadiks and rabbis from other cities. This fills the cemetery with special energy and atmosphere. As you walk between the odd tombstones, you look at the original symbols and try to read in obscure, yet elegant letters of Yiddish, you feel peace of mind and somehow organize your thoughts, crystallize ideas and form plans. The present Berdychiv is different from the city of the 18th century, but thousands of Hasidim from all over the world are making their way through the small town to honor the memory of one of the most famous tzadiks in the world, to be inspired and to remember the hospitable Berdychiv and holy places in their memory.
And those who are willing to enjoy the tranquility, unexpected cemetery beauty and balanced energy can visit one of the most original tourist sites in Zhytomyr – the Jewish cemetery.